How to Set Up an A/V Receiver - Part 1
Part I - The Connections and Installation
Understanding how to connect and set up your A/V Receiver for your own home theater is not as daunting as you might expect. Making this task easy is a matter of taking it piece by piece. In that same sense, we'll break this setup down into two articles, Part I - The Connections and Installation and Part II - Configure and Tweak.
Congratulations! You've decided that your very own surround sound home theater system to go with your tv or projector is something you just couldn't go without. Deciding to set it up yourself also deserves a quick pat on the back. This will not only save you money, but can help you to better understand your equipment and extract the absolute maximum enjoyment it has to offer.
Looking at the back of a receiver generally causes two reactions. In the smaller camp are those A/V nerds (geeks?) like us here that get all giddy and excited. However, for most people it can cause a bit of apprehension, maybe even a groan or two. Even the great Goofy dedicated a whole cartoon to the delights of setting up a full home theater, in the incomparable way that only Goofy can. It's pretty much the unofficial setup video of A/V enthusiasts. Your journey of course, will go much smoother. So, without further ado, let's jump right in.
Placement and Power
In our Home Theater 101 series we started with the room, that was no accident. Deciding on where is critical. For your receiver, you should start with just that. By keeping it close to the tv, you are making the popular and wise choice. It's not the only place for it but, it does have its advantages. The cable lengths needed to connect the tv, main front speakers, other devices such as Blu-ray players will be kept to a minimum. This will keep cost and potential interference issues down. An entertainment center or A/V stand make great cases for the home of your A/V receiver. Keeping the equipment close together is not the only way to go. Serious enthusiasts can opt for a closet or hidden space where a large rack for mounting all the equipment is kept out of the way or even out of sight. Those situations may require signal amplifiers or other specialty equipment. The majority of installs will live in furniture up front close to the display.
Running power to this equipment requires a little attention. All of your devices come with a price tag, it would be a shame if they were destroyed by a passing storm or other surge in the power lines. Spend a few extra dollars for a decent surge protector to add extra power connections and keep nasty spikes from damaging your investments. For most situations, power conditioners will not be needed. If the manufacturers specify that you must use power conditioners, or if you know you have power-related issues in your home, then they may be of some consideration, but generally not needed.
Heat kills electronics. Almost all electronics have ways of dissipating heat. Your computers, tvs, projectors, gaming consoles, A/V receivers, and even your phone have ways to deal with heat. All those electrons party hard, and result in inefficiencies that generate this hot byproduct. When it comes to your A/V Receiver, it needs space to rid itself of this equipment killer. Heed the manufacturer's recommendations and provide room around, and especially above, to allow it to keep its cool. If the equipment resides in a cabinet that can close, like a glass door on an entertainment center, consider ways to help keep it cool. Propping the door open during operation, or in the case of kids and pets, perhaps extra rear openings, even fans in extreme cases to rid the space of heat.
Connections, Connections, and More Connections!
The numbers and types of connections available on the back, and even front of a home theater receiver vary from model to model. In general, the higher up you go in price the more features, and supporting connections it will have. This is where the nervous jitter might start to set in. So many things going on, why?, and who wants to have to deal with all that? Can't they just simplify it all to a single type? Let's answer these, again breaking it down piece by piece, will take this elephant down to bite-sized morsels.
*For our examples and walkthroughs, we'll use a solid mid-tier A/V receiver that features a majority of connections you'll come across. In this case it was a popular model a few years ago from Yamaha, the TSR-7810. (We'll be zooming in quite drastically, so apologies ahead of time for the reduction in quality)
Let's examine left to right, top to bottom:
* Trigger - a 12v connection that, as an example, can be connected to an automated projector screen. When the receiver turns on, it tells the screen to drop down. When it turns off, the screen retracts.
*Remote In/Out - These connections are for infrared signals to be passed along from remotes to equipment. Let's say you have the cabinet door closed where most of your equipment lives. An IR receiver can sit close to the tv, then the wire routes into the IN connections of the receiver then back OUT to an IR sender (blaster) where other devices can receive the signal.
*HDMI
Wouldn't it be nice if someone just simplified all these connections down to a single universal type? Well that's what HDMI strives to be. This is by far the most powerful and robust connection type. It is essential for the latest and greatest resolutions and audio signals. These connections can pass along video, audio, internet, remote commands, and other forms of data.
The two connections on the left (grey around them) are outputs to connect say a tv (1) and a projector (2). You'll notice the ARC on HDMI out 1. This is for the Audio Return Channel (ARC) coming from the tv. Whatever the tv is playing, say streaming from a smart app, the receiver will be able to play the audio the tv is experiencing through the HDMI ARC connection. Make sure that you connect both the receiver and the tv's dedicated HDMI ARC connections to get this critical feature. The other 5 HDMI connections on the right are inputs from other sources, Blu-ray players, gaming consoles, satellite tv, etc.
HDCP 2.2 - High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection, or in other words, a way to keep the signal encrypted or protected against copying of 4K content. That's so a simple HDMI connection cannot be allowed to pass through something like a computer that could simply 'record' what goes through the HDMI cable in order to copy what is being displayed. 4K Blu-ray players require this. Your player, receiver, and tv must ALL be HDCP 2.2 compliant or you will not see the full 4K resolution being displayed.
*Wireless and Network
Modern receivers often come with a screw-on antenna (marked 'wireless' on the left) for wifi and even Bluetooth. Be sure that your receiver can get a decent signal wherever you decide to place it if using these wireless connections.
The wired network jack on the right will allow the receiver to access the internet and your home network. Especially handy if the receiver is not in an ideal place to use its wireless connection.
Why network connectivity? Receivers can stream audio (and at times even video) sources from your local network and the internet, such as Apple's AirPlay, or from Spotify, etc. The types and number of sources will depend on your specific AV receiver. Your smartphone or tablet can also be used to control your receiver and act as an interactive remote control. Once your receiver has connectivity, download the manufacturer's app from your favorite app store, and swipe away.
*Digital Audio Connections
There are two main connections for passing along digital audio as a separate connection (if not making use of HDMI as explained earlier above). Here they are paired with your classic yellow round video connection. Most receiver's will allow you to play the audio separate from the video, more on that in our Part II - Configure and Tweak article.
*Optical - (the square-ish top left connection) This makes use of fiber optic technology. This allows the audio cable to run long distances as well as close to many other cables without the loss of quality. Fiber optic cables are not affected by the electromagnetic interferences of metal cables, keeping the signal clear of any hiss, static, humming etc.
*Digital Coaxial - Similar looking to the yellow video cable, but often black or orange in the center. This is a digital signal and not an analog signal like the yellow video cable. This helps it transmit multiple channels of information at the same time over a single connection.
At least one of these connections will be found on the back of nearly all televisions. If you do not use the HDMI ARC, then this will allow you to gain access to the audio signal the tv is currently experiencing. There are however, limitations to both of these connection types. They were created when 5.1/6.1 audio was the current limit. They will almost never support 7.1 and will not support the newer object-based audio such as Atmos and DTS:X, you'll need HDMI for that.
*AM/FM Radio Antennas
Yup, radio, in both its flavors of Frequency Modulation (FM) and Amplitude Modulation (AM). These antennas are almost always included with your receiver. The FM antenna is either a single wire or Y-shaped wire. The AM antenna is usually a plastic square with the cable looped around it. Once hooked up and plugged in, you may have to experiment a little with placement to get the best signal.
*Composite and Component Video
*Composite video you're probably very familiar with. Its yellow and round and often close to the white and red for audio. That's been the most basic A/V connection for decades. Because of that popularity, you'll still see it on just about every video device, though it is fading out more each year. This is not a very high quality connection, and when possible use just about any other connection for a higher quality picture.
*Component is the next step up. It makes use of three separate round (factoid - that round plug is called an RCA-type connection) connections for video rather than the single yellow composite above. These are listed as Y (usually green in color), Pb (blue), and Pr (red). This is a decent step up in quality and supports basic HD resolutions. Combined with either the classic white/red RCA audio connections or even one of the digital audio connections will provide a good step up in quality.
Note - most tvs will support the Y component connection just like the yellow composite connection. So if your tv doesn't have a separate yellow composite connection but does have the three-color component connection, it'll probably be able to display the picture just fine using that Y connection.
*Phono (Record Player) and Standard RCA Audio Connections
Record players are making a come back (who knew right?). In fact, record sales are positioned to pass up CD sales soon (who buys CDs?).
Kidding aside, there are actually a few connections that may be on your record player. Newer models can output to USB, RCA line level outputs, or preamp outputs. What does all this mean? Well record players work similar to a microphone. The needle in this case, vibrates as it tracks along the grooves in the record. These vibrations are converted into electrical signals by way of electromagnetism. As you can imagine, the voltages or total electrical output for a very small needle (stylus) is not much. This is the preamp signal, and the connection for that is pictured above. These RCA style connectors are set to receive these very small signals. Often a ground connector is added to keep noise from entering into these sensitive signals. Because of this sensitivity, do not plug in something modern like a CD player into a dedicated Phono input. The voltage will simply be too much causing serious distortion.
Modern record players, especially those with USB outputs will have a preamp built-in and so they actually would plug into the regular audio connections (pictured on the right) that the likes of CD players would use.
In summary, check if your record player has a preamp or phono output and match it accordingly. If the A/V receiver does not include a dedicated phono input for a record player that requires it, a separate preamp can be purchased to allow the record player and receiver to work together.
*Preamp/Pre Out
Some of these connections are not actually as common as you might think. The A/V receiver comes with amplifiers built-in to power speakers. The pre outs shown above are audio signals processed for surround sound but before amplification. Generally, separate pre outs for all audio channels are only seen in mid to upper-tier receivers or dedicated preamp receivers (A/V receivers with no amplifiers built-in).
For a subwoofer connection this is normal. The receiver will not amplify the subwoofer signal, but pass it along as a preamp signal. The subwoofer will have its own dedicated amplifier that is specific and powerful enough to move that large speaker.
Zone 2 connections are also normal to see as preamp outs. Again, a signal cable can be run to another amp or receiver in a different room that will power those speakers.
So why separate the signal for the same-room surround speakers? This is usually if you want to use the receiver to process all the complex digital surround sound signals, but would like to provide a more robust or even different types of amplifiers. An example would be for a set of very large front speakers that could require hundreds of watts that the receiver cannot provide. Send the preamp signal to a separate amplifier and problem solved.
*Speaker Outputs
There are two connections per speaker, one positive and one negative. Be sure and keep track of this from receiver to speaker, this is very important. Speakers move back and forth, speakers moving in the same direction at the same time are in-phase. Reverse the polarity of the positive and negative connections on one of them and they will move in the opposite directions, being out-of-phase. Speakers that are out-of-phase, will try and cancel the other in-phase speakers. Two signals that are equal but opposite work against each other, remember basic algebra, 2 plus -2 equals 0.
Resistance (is futile). Here resistance or impedance is measured in ohms, the ohmega or horseshoe symbol you see above. Never connect a speaker that is below/lower in ohms than that listed as the minimum by the receiver's/amplifier's manufacturer. On the top left of the picture above you'll notice two different minimum listings. Front 4/Others 6 as well as Front 8/Others 8. Digging into the manual (what do you mean I have to read the manual?) will explain it further. For this model, you can get into a menu where you tell the receiver what the ohm ratings are for your speakers. So if you had 4 ohm speakers, you could only hook those up to the main left/right front speakers and no other connection because all other connections would need to be at least 6 and above. Or, if the front left/right speakers are 8 ohms, then all other speakers will also need to be at least 8 ohms. Most dedicated home theater speakers are 8 ohms. If they fall below that, check with the manufacturer to see what combos of minimums you can use. While there is no maximum, the higher you go, the less efficient/powerful the amplifier will be. Vintage audio products are generally in the 16 ohm range.
*Banana Plugs
*Other Considerations
Important note- Most people have seen and connected speaker wire. It looks like lamp cord, with two connectors, one for each polarity. This wire is fine for connecting speakers running directly from receiver to speaker. If you are running through walls or other similar situations, then you need a UL-listed cable that has an extra outer plastic layer. This protects the wire when pulling it along in tight spaces and may even be required by law and/or your homeowner's insurance. Similar laws/rules apply to running power cables and even signal cables (like HDMI) through walls. Be sure and check. And yes, it's totally okay to use all UL-listed cables if you prefer to apply better-safe-than-sorry philosophy to such situations.
*Speaker placement - we won't go into too much detail here. We'll tackle this subject in a separate article outside these A/V receiver articles. Speaker placement deserves its own article, it can be that critical. Here are the basics: Up front and at about ear-level are the three main speakers, the center, and the front left/right speakers. Ideally they should be spaced equidistant from one other. Rear speakers are behind and slightly above ear-level, again equidistant from the main listening position. Surround speakers are also just above ear-level and to either side of the main listening position. Height speakers come in 3 main flavors. Ceiling mounted, these are on the ceiling slightly in front of the main listening position. Atmos-enabled front speakers are speakers that will rest on top of the front left/right speakers. They are angled so that if you have a flat ceiling the sound bounces off the ceiling before hitting your ear. Not as effective as ceiling mounted but an option for some situations. Front height speakers are mounted on the front (where the tv/screen is) wall up high and the outside toward the corners. These also help lift the overall sound, and are often good for multi-channel music. Finally, the subwoofer is usually along the front wall somewhere, but can be placed elsewhere too.
*Hiding and Managing Cables
An A/V receiver that is all connected up often resembles a rat's nest with wires running everywhere. Managing these wires takes time. To start, be sure and pick your locations for everything, the equipment and speakers. Then measure the routing path for all the connections. Use tape measures or even run string along the desired path, then measure the string. Provide a little buffer, and order/make cables of the correct length. This helps ensure you have enough to do what you need, but not so much it's impossible to manage all the extra cable. Cable ties, velcro wraps, plastic conduits help keep things together. Some A/V racks and entertainment center furniture will include paths that can hide cables as well. Hiding cables is one of the very last steps. This allows you to move stuff or even swap cables during the installation and setup steps. Do not try and hide it all too early or you might undo a lot of hard work. There are also products that can help, flat wire that can hug walls and go under rugs. Even organizers that are paintable and can run along baseboards are out there too.
*Tools
Luckily most of the tools you'll need are pretty simple. Some wire strippers and crimpers could come in handy when stripping speaker wire and fastening banana plugs. A screwdriver, flat and phillips, might be needed. A flashlight or better yet, a headlamp to keep your hands-free. Owner's manuals should also be present, physical or digital. And don't forget the value of a label maker. Labeling wires will save so much time, especially later on if you need to swap or move equipment.
*Testing - Back to the Basics
Once you have everything connected, or as you finish each device, it's time to test each connection and basic settings. This is where a lot of frustration can present itself. In fact, choice four letter words are usually heard before the sweet sounds from the tv make their way through your system. Take a deep breath, you got this. Always start at the absolute most basic, check the power cables and switches, trace each wire, double check the connections are firm and properly seated. Note the name of each input/output. Check the manual, never underestimate this important resource. Once you have it all connected, tested the basics, things power on and sounds can be heard, when appropriate, then take a break and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
Next we'll get into the setup and configuration to maximize the potential from all your equipment. If you were paying attention, some of your cable management should still be waiting to be completed until the final configurations and setups have been made. On to part II of 'How to Set Up an A/V Receiver'.
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